Archive of Published Articles



How Flavor Drives Nutrition

April 9, 2015
The Wall Street Journal
For more than 50 years, our food has been getting blander—but the best diets turn out to also be delicious...


For Italian Chef Massimo Bottura, Cooking is an Act of Love

March 10, 2015
Globe and Mail

Which is more important? Technique or ingredients? I ask Massimo Bottura and Rob Gentile...


What a Curious lawsuit About Egg-less ‘Mayonnaise’ Can Teach Us, Globe and Mail

November 25, 2014
Globe and Mail

Have you heard the news about mayonnaise? It’s not mayonnaise. According to mayonnaise, that is...


Chocolate: Can Science Save the World's Most Endangered Treat?

November 14, 2014
Bloomberg Pursuits

Mark your calendar:January 1, 2020. As this future year unfolds, the gap between how much cocoa the world wants to consume and how much it can produce will swell to 1 million metric tons, according to Mars Inc. and Barry Callebaut AG, the world’s largest chocolate maker. By 2030, the predicted shortfall will grow to 2 million tons. And so on…


The Pungent Debate of Using Garlic in Cooking

November 11, 2014
Globe and Mail

When Gabriele Paganelli, a chef who grew up just outside the Italian city of Bologna, opened his restaurant Romagna Mia in Toronto in 1997, his kitchen was guided by a single, unbending rule: No garlic. For the first 12 months, not a single clove was peeled, minced, smashed, sautéed or in any way prepared. After a year, Paganelli loosened up. Staff were permitted to infuse garlic into olive oil – but that was it. Finally, after another 12 months, once his chefs “learned to use garlic in the right way,” the restriction was lifted...


Poulet de Bresse: The Best Chicken You’ll Never Have (in Canada)

September 23, 2014
Globe and Mail

Several months ago, I received an unexpected e-mail from one Amanda Nelson of Delta, B.C. She wanted to know if I would be interested in sampling the Bresse chicken she raises on her farm with her husband, Matthew. The default answer to an offer like this is pretty clear: When can I get some?...


Why is Mexican Cuisine So Good?

October 28, 2013
Condé Nast Traveler

There is a man selling oro mangoes at the farmers’ market in Malinalco who cuts them up into small, uneven chunks and serves them in a disposable cup, and I strongly suggest you buy one because it will be the best mango to ever pass your lips—a record that will stand for, oh, a minute. The oro (“gold”) is just a workaday mango, the man will tell you, about as good as a petacon (“butt cheek”), but nowhere near as good as the king of all mangoes, the mighty manila, a golden lobe of tropical acid-sweet balance that arrives peeled and gamely impaled on a wooden stick and dusted with chili powder...


The Agony and the Ecstasy

May 8, 2011
Condé Nast Traveler

I had been flirting with unwellness since 2006, the year my first child was born. Her arrival was followed by sleepless nights, an acute reduction in leisure time, and a condition psychologists refer to as provider anxiety. Two years later, my wife gave birth to twins. My condition deteriorated. By the time I boarded the Continental Airlines flight in Newark, it had been, by my calculation, more than 1,500 days since I had enjoyed a good night's sleep. Somewhere over the North Atlantic, the flight attendant informed me that alcoholic drinks cost seven dollars. Make that 1,501...